How to Pour a Concrete Landing Pad for Deck Stairs

Using a shovel and tape measure, mark out a rectangular area at the base of the deck stairs. The dimensions should be approximately 2 feet wide by 3 feet long. Excavate this area to a depth of at least 6 inches to allow for the concrete pad and a gravel base for drainage and stability. Ensure the excavated area is level.

Cut two pieces of 2x6 lumber to 3 feet in length and two pieces to 2 feet in length. Assemble these pieces into a rectangular frame using screws, ensuring the corners are square. This frame will serve as the mold for the concrete, and its interior dimensions should match the desired final size of the landing pad.

Pour approximately 4 inches of gravel into the excavated area within the formwork. Use a hand tamper or a piece of scrap lumber to firmly compact the gravel. This layer will provide drainage and prevent frost heave, ensuring the longevity of the concrete pad.

Cut rebar or wire mesh to fit inside the formwork, ensuring it is elevated slightly off the gravel base. You can use rebar chairs or small pieces of gravel to keep it suspended. This reinforcement will prevent the concrete from cracking under stress.

Using a concrete mixer or mixing the concrete in batches with a shovel and wheelbarrow, combine the concrete mix with water as per the manufacturer's instructions. Aim for a workable consistency that is not too wet or too dry. Carefully pour the mixed concrete into the formwork, spreading it evenly with a shovel or rake to fill the entire space.

Using a straight piece of lumber (such as a 2x4) as a screed board, rest it on top of the 2x6 formwork. Move the screed board back and forth in a sawing motion across the surface of the wet concrete, dragging excess concrete with it and filling low spots. This process levels the concrete to the height of the form.

After screeding, wait until the concrete has lost its initial sheen (the bleed water has evaporated). Then, using a magnesium or wood float, sweep the surface in wide, overlapping arcs. This action embeds larger aggregate, smooths out imperfections left by screeding, and brings a layer of cement paste (cream) to the surface, which is essential for final finishing.

Once the concrete has set further and the float marks have disappeared, use a steel trowel to create a smooth, hard finish. Hold the trowel at a slight angle and move it in large, sweeping arcs across the surface. For a very smooth finish, multiple passes may be necessary as the concrete hardens.

Keep the concrete moist for at least 3 to 7 days after pouring. You can achieve this by covering it with plastic sheeting, burlap bags kept constantly wet, or by periodically misting the surface with water. Proper curing is critical for the concrete to reach its designed strength and durability.

Once the concrete has cured sufficiently (typically after 24-48 hours, but check local conditions and concrete type), carefully pry off the 2x6 lumber forms. Use a pry bar to gently loosen the forms from the concrete. Be careful not to chip or damage the edges of the concrete pad.