Run the Wires in the Ceiling
From Recessed Staircase Lighting · Step 3 of 8 · Video by Fix This Build That

Showing 16:51–21:10 of the source video. Watch the full video with every moment.
What happens in this clip
Now, it's time to run the electrical wires through the ceiling to connect all the light fixtures. If you have attic access, this involves running appropriate gauge Romex wire (e.g., 14/2 for 15-amp breakers, 12/2 for 20-amp breakers) from the main power source (e.g., a fan's junction box) to each recessed light fixture in a daisy-chain fashion. Use specialized long auger bits (wood-drilling type) to drill through solid joists if necessary. Once a pilot hole is drilled, feed the wire through the small hole at the tip of the auger bit, and pull the bit back through to run the wire without having to climb into tight spaces. If working from below with limited access between floors, use the long auger bit to drill through joists and fish wires to each light. Use small flags (wire with tape) to mark where wires are located in insulation for easier retrieval in the attic. Connect each segment of wire to the next fixture's junction box using approved connectors.
What's said in this clip
existing hole. Right now, we are at the step that you have all been fearing, which is the wiring, which you don't have to really fear it at all because it's fairly easy as long as you have the right tools. And so, in this room, I know that I have the light switch that is going up to the fan that we're going to tap into the circuit that goes into the light kit. Now, in general, the wiring is really easy. You just have to get connection to one of the lights and then go from there. and daisy chain in series to each of the other lights. So, you hit one of them, it doesn't really matter which one you tie into. Actually, for this install, I think I'm going to tie into this one over here since it's in that same stud bay as the fan. So, once I tie into it, then I can run a wire to the next one, to the next one, and so on till I get to all of them. So, if you do have attic access like I do, you're going to see exactly how I'm going to do it. But, if you don't have that attic access, you see we've got joist right here, and they're probably going to be every 16 in. the joists are maybe 24 in. You're going to have to drill a hole through each of those joists as you're running across down to the next hole. So, you can do that either by opening up a hole and reaching up in there and drilling through and running the wire, or they do make some specialty tools to do that that will help you. So, the easiest way to drill through your joist is going to be with one of these augur bits. This is a 6 foot long bit. And actually, the end I have on here is for drilling into dirt. They make ones that are specifically for drilling through wood and they have an augur tip on the end here. I don't have that one currently, but the key here is this little hole right here. So, you just chuck this guy up into your drill. And you can see this thing is huge. And then what you can do is get in and you want to get as close to the ceiling as possible for parallel. And then you just drill through. And you can drill through as long as you don't have more than 6 ft to go. you can drill through into the next stud bay, which we could easily reach on ours here. After you've drilled through, you pull the head of that out through the hole you're trying to get to. And that's where this little hole comes in handy. And basically, you would grab your wire. Then you can stick that right in between there. And then just loop it like this. And then you could do some electrical tape here so it won't catch…
Automatically transcribed from the source video.
Step 3 of 8: Install Wiring
Drill holes through wall studs or ceiling joists as needed to route the electrical cable. Use a fish tape or similar tool to pull the wire through. Ensure the wire is secured properly and does not come into contact with sharp edges. Leave enough slack at each fixture location for making connections. The wire type and gauge must be appropriate for the circuit's amperage and the fixture's requirements, typically 14/2 or 12/2 NM-B cable for residential lighting.
Every video in Recessed Staircase Lighting
Step 1: Plan Lighting Layout
- 0:42–1:17 Mark Recessed Step Light Locations
- 0:00–0:01 Plan and Mark Light Locations
- 0:34–0:49 Mark Light Placement
Step 2: Determine Power Source and Circuit Needs
- 5:24–5:56 Connect to Existing Power
Step 3: Install Wiring
- 4:17–5:10 Run NM Electrical Cable for Lighting
- 1:10–1:28 Install Electrical Wiring
- 16:51–21:10 Run the Wires in the Ceiling (this video)
Step 4: Cut Fixture Openings
- 1:37–2:29 Cut Opening for Light Fixture and Drill Wiring Path
- 3:50–4:15 Cut Openings for Fixture Boxes
- 4:11–5:24 Cut Drywall Openings
Step 5: Install Light Fixtures
- 2:04–3:10 Install Recessed Light Housing
- 4:46–5:24 Install LED Light Fixture
- 0:17–0:23 Install LED Lights into Ceiling
Step 6: Connect Wiring
- 3:29–4:49 Connect Electrical Wires
- 0:28–0:36 Make Wire Connections with Wire Nuts
- 2:18–2:55 Make Wire Connections
Step 7: Test the System
- 3:42–3:55 Test the Light Fixture
- 2:11–2:21 Restore Power and Test
- 2:16–2:20 Power On and Test
Step 8: Install Trim or Covers
- 2:05–2:23 Install Light Bulbs and Trim
- 0:16–0:33 Install Decorative Trim
- 3:57–4:29 Install Trim and Bulb
Questions about Recessed Staircase Lighting
What are the most critical safety precautions I need to take for this electrical project?
Always ensure the power is off at the circuit breaker before starting any electrical work. Use a voltage/circuit tester to confirm wires are dead before touching them. Familiarize yourself with local electrical codes and wear appropriate safety gear, including insulated gloves and eye protection. If you are uncertain about any step, hire a licensed electrician.
What specialized tools are absolutely essential for installing recessed staircase lighting?
Beyond basic tools, you'll need a voltage/circuit tester for safety and a good drill. A fish tape (like the Klein Tools 100 ft. Non-Conductive Fiberglass Fish Tape) is crucial for running wires through finished walls. A specialized auger bit (e.g., DIABLO 1/2 in. x 7-1/2 in. Auger Bit) is recommended for drilling through studs, and a cable stapler helps secure wiring correctly.
How important is the initial planning for light placement, and what's a common mistake to avoid?
Planning the light layout is crucial for achieving even illumination and avoiding glare, especially on stairs. A common mistake is not considering the light beam spread or stair dimensions, resulting in inadequate lighting or harsh hot spots. Use painter's tape or temporary lights to visualize the effect before cutting any holes.
The project is estimated to take '3 days'; what contributes most to that time, and can it be shortened?
The 3-day estimate accounts for careful planning, safely running new wiring, precise hole cutting, fixture installation, and potentially patching or painting. Much of the time is dedicated to ensuring electrical safety and code compliance. While careful work takes time, having all tools and materials ready can prevent delays, but rushing electrical work is never recommended.
Are there any less invasive or easier alternatives to recessed lighting for staircases?
Yes, if cutting into walls for recessed fixtures seems too daunting, consider surface-mount step lights or LED strip lighting. LED strips can be installed under stair nosings or along handrails, offering a softer, diffused light. These options generally require less structural modification but still involve proper electrical connections.
Recessed Staircase Lighting
This project involves planning the layout, safely running electrical wiring, cutting holes in the wall, installing the light fixtures, and connecting them to a power source. It's a moderately complex electrical project that requires careful attention to safety and building codes.
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