Attach Support Blocks and Secure Wedges
From Squeaky Stair Repair · Step 6 of 7 · Video by Game of Life

Showing 4:46–5:44 of the source video. Watch the full video with every moment.
What happens in this clip
With the pilot holes pre-drilled, it's time to secure the support blocks. Start by driving one screw through the block into the riser to hold the block firmly in place. This allows you to remove your hand for the second screw. Then, drive the second screw into the other pilot hole in the block, ensuring the block is fully secured to the riser. Next, take one of your smaller wedge pieces. Apply wood glue generously to the flat, angled side of the wedge that will contact the riser and the angled surface of the block. Position the wedge so its flat side is facing upwards, against the underside of the tread, and its angled side mates with the block's angled side. Push the wedge gently into place. Use a blunt object, such as the end of a hammer or a small piece of wood, and lightly tap it with a mallet or hammer to drive the wedge firmly into the space between the block and the underside of the tread. As the wedge is driven in, it will lift the tread slightly, pressing it firmly against the riser and eliminating movement. Wipe away any excess wood glue that squeezes out immediately with a damp rag. Repeat these steps for all the blocks you've prepared for each squeaky tread. Ensure each block and wedge system is secure and the glue is setting.
Goal: Permanently attach the support blocks and wedges to eliminate movement and squeaking.
What's used
Tools
- Blunt Object
- Hammer
- Scrap wood
- Drill Porter Cable
- Rag
- Screws
- Support Blocks (Mini-Risers)
- Wedge Pieces
- Wood Glue Titebond Premium II
About the full video
This project provides instructions on how to fix noisy stairs by adding support blocks (mini-risers) underneath the treads and risers, and by re-securing or replacing loose wedges in the stringers. The main issue addressed is the movement and rubbing between the tread and riser due to a lack of central support and the dislodging of structural wedges.
Step 6 of 7: Secure from Underside (if accessible)
From beneath the stairs, locate the area of the squeak. Secure wood blocks or metal angle brackets using wood screws to bridge the gap between the tread and riser, or tread and stringer, thereby reducing movement and friction.
Every video in Squeaky Stair Repair
Step 1: Identify Squeak Source
- 0:00–0:38 Diagnose the Squeaky Stair Problem
- 0:00–0:09 Locate the Squeak
- 2:21–3:48 Diagnose Creaking Causes
Step 2: Inspect for Loose Tread or Riser
- 0:00–0:30 Locate Squeak and Assess Access
- 2:21–3:48 Diagnose Creaking Causes
- 0:00–0:38 Diagnose the Squeaky Stair Problem
Step 3: Tighten Fasteners
- 6:48–10:07 Address Additional Squeaky Spots
- 0:49–1:04 Fix Squeaks from Above (Hardwood/Laminate with Nails)
- 2:09–2:47 Drive Trim Head Screw
Step 4: Shim Gaps
- 0:54–1:14 Trim Excess Shim for a Flush Finish
- 0:11–0:13 Shim the Low Spots
- 1:47–2:12 Insert Wood Shims into Hole
Step 5: Apply Lubricant or Powder
- 0:52–2:39 Apply Powder
- 0:34–0:54 Apply Dry Lubricant to Eliminate Squeaks
- 2:51–3:25 Eliminate Creaking Floors with Talcum Powder
Step 6: Secure from Underside (if accessible)
- 0:49–1:06 Reinforce from Underside with Screws
- 1:48–2:20 Secure Risers to Treads from Behind
- 4:46–5:44 Attach Support Blocks and Secure Wedges (this video)
Step 7: Test the Repair
- 9:40–9:57 Final Check and Confirmation
- 3:30–3:44 Test for Squeaks and Fill Holes
- 0:27–0:32 Final Inspection and Testing
Questions about Squeaky Stair Repair
What are the most common reasons stairs squeak, and how does this project address them?
Stairs typically squeak due to loose treads or risers rubbing against the stair frame, or when fasteners become loose, creating friction and movement. This project directly tackles these issues by tightening connections, shimming gaps to eliminate movement, and applying lubricants to reduce friction at contact points.
What specialized tools or materials will I need beyond standard DIY equipment for this project?
While basic screwdrivers and pliers are essential, you'll also need a nail set to recess nails, a framing hammer for precise adjustments, and a utility knife for trimming shims. Specific materials include wood shims, scrap wood blocks for support, angle brackets for reinforcement, and #10 3-inch wood screws.
How difficult is this project for a beginner, and what's the estimated time commitment?
This project is considered beginner-friendly as it primarily involves diagnosis and simple mechanical fixes. The estimated 4-hour timeframe is generally achievable, but locating the precise source of the squeak can sometimes be the most time-consuming part of the process.
What should I do if I can't access the underside of my stairs to secure components?
If the underside is inaccessible, focus on top-side solutions. You can drive screws through the top of treads into risers or stringers, or use shims and adhesive between loose components from above. Specialized anti-squeak kits, which often involve small screws or plugs inserted from the top, are also available.
Are there any common mistakes to avoid, or safety tips to keep in mind while repairing squeaky stairs?
A common mistake is failing to accurately pinpoint the squeak's source before attempting a fix, which can lead to ineffective repairs. For safety, ensure the staircase is well-lit and clear of obstructions, mark any steps temporarily out of use, and keep tools securely placed to prevent tripping hazards.
Can I use any type of lubricant or powder, or are there specific recommendations for eliminating stair squeaks?
For lubrication, talcum powder or powdered graphite are highly effective for reducing friction between wood components without creating a greasy mess. Avoid using oily lubricants, as these can attract dust and grime, potentially worsening the squeak over time or staining the wood.
Squeaky Stair Repair
This project addresses the common issue of squeaky stairs by identifying the source of the noise and applying targeted fixes to eliminate it. The process involves a systematic approach to diagnose the cause, which can range from loose treads or risers to friction between wood components, and then implementing appropriate solutions such as tightening fasteners, shimming gaps, or applying lubricants.
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